Learn
Weaving in ends
How to make tails stay put in every kind of fabric: the two-direction rule, what to do with slippery yarn, and how to avoid the job altogether.
By The StudioPublished Jul 19, 20265 min read

Nobody likes weaving in ends, but a project with a tail poking out after the first wash looks unfinished, and a toy that unravels at the nose is worse. The job is simple, and the difference between ends that hold and ends that work loose comes down to a few habits: enough length, two directions, and going through the yarn rather than around it.
The tools
A tapestry needle with a blunt tip and an eye big enough for the yarn. A bent-tip needle makes it easier to catch the back of stitches on a firm fabric. Small sharp scissors. That is all. A crochet hook can pull ends through in a pinch, but a needle lets you split the yarn, which is what holds the tail.
The basic method
- 1Turn the piece to the wrong side. Thread the tail on the needle. It should be at least 15 cm (6 in); shorter than 10 cm is hard to weave securely.
- 2Run the needle through the back of the stitches in one direction for about 5 cm, going through the yarn of the stitches rather than under whole loops, so the tail is held by fiber not by a loose tunnel.
- 3Turn and run it back the way it came for 3 to 4 cm, slightly offset so it does not lie in the same channel.The turn is what stops the tail pulling out when the fabric stretches.
- 4Stretch the fabric gently to settle the tail, then trim close, leaving a couple of millimeters so the cut end can retreat into the fabric.
By fabric type
- Dense single crochet (toys): weave the tail into the stuffing side, then run it through the center of the piece and out the other side, pull to bury, trim. Nothing shows and it cannot escape.
- Open lace and mesh: there are no solid stitches to hide in. Weave along the posts of the tall stitches, splitting the yarn, for a shorter distance but with two turns instead of one.
- Stripes: weave each tail into its own color area, never across the boundary, or it will show.
- Ribbing and post stitches: weave along the back of a rib so the tail stays in the recessed line.
- Edges that will be seamed: leave the tails and weave them into the seam allowance after seaming; they are then doubly hidden.
Slippery yarn
Silk, bamboo, superwash merino and smooth acrylics let tails slide. For these, split the plies of the tail and weave each half separately in different directions, or weave in three directions instead of two. A tiny drop of fabric glue on the trimmed end of a slippery tail, inside a toy, is not cheating. Knots are a last resort; a knot in the middle of a fabric feels like a pea and works its way to the surface.
Avoiding the job
The best ends are the ones you never weave. Crochet over the tails for five or six stitches when you join a new ball or change color, and only the last few centimeters need a needle. Join new yarn at the edge of a row in pieces that will have a border or seam, where tails can hide. Use a join that needs no tail at all in wool: the felted or spit splice, where the two ends are overlapped, dampened and rubbed between your palms until they felt together. For long carries in stripes, let the yarn travel up the edge instead of cutting.
The magic ring tail
The tail of a magic ring holds the center closed and deserves special care. Before weaving it, pull it once more to make sure the ring is tight. Then weave it in a small circle around the center on the wrong side, through the bases of the first round of stitches, and back through a few of them. That locks the ring shut; a ring tail simply trimmed will loosen with the first wash and open a hole.
Do it as you go
Weave in ends at the end of each session, or at least at the end of each piece, rather than saving fifty of them for the end of a blanket. A cardigan with the ends done as the pieces were finished is done when the last seam is sewn; one with the ends saved up has an evening of work left that nobody wants to do. Then it is ready for blocking, which settles every woven tail into the fabric for good.
Keep reading

5 min read
Seaming
Mattress stitch, whipstitch, backstitch and crocheted seams: which to use where on a garment, how to match rows, and how to make a seam disappear.

5 min read
Care and washing
How to wash, dry and store crochet by fiber so it lasts: machine or hand, flat drying, pilling, moths and what the label symbols mean.
4 min read
Blocking
Wet, spray and steam blocking: what each does, which fibers want which, and how to pin a shawl or a sweater so it dries into the size on the schematic.

